Adventures in Ender 3 Pro Noise Reduction (plus a Review)

I recently acquired an Ender 3 Pro. I was immediately impressed with how nicely organized everything is with it. Granted, the last printer I actually bought was one of the very first MakerBot kits. Anyway, I love my little Ender 3 Pro. As someone who’s done a lot of custom printer work, I couldn’t help but make changes, as much as I bought this machine specifically with the intent of changing nothing.

In my case, I decided to try to keep the machine looking fairly stock. I like mods that are subtle but high-impact.

Here’s a video I’ve made to largely convey the same noise reduction info that’s in this post, plus a bit of an overall review:

Here’s a quick list of the changes that I made that have substantially reduced the noise generated by this machine.

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3D Printed Hard Drive mount for 27″ iMac

One of my delightful neuroses is collecting abandoned non-functioning macs and fixing them. Last week I managed to pick up a completely dead 2010 one for $174, all parts included, just totally dead. Today I got the carcus of another for $51 (no screen, no memory, no motherboard, no glass). The carcus’ power supply happens to work and the $174 unit’s problem was exactly that – a dead PSU.

I needed a hard drive bracket/strap/clamp and had none. I measured as best I could with my plastic callipers (seriously the most useful tool of all time, maybe more useful than computers themselves). I used Sketchup to CAD a little hack to do the job. It’s not pretty and I’m a bit concerned about how hot these things can get, but I figure “meh, fuck it”.

I’ve published the file for the mount on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2152134

PS – these open and exposed PSU-guts have taught me a little about AC shocks. As a Computer Engineer, my preferred domain is low-voltage DC. Frick. AC makes me a little twitchy now. 😉

DeltaFlyer Episode II: Prime Line Rollers

DeltaFlyer Episode II was originally posted to hackaday.io. I’ve mirrored it here for my own purposes.

For the Delta Flyer’s maiden voyage, I opted to go cheap and use Prime Line rollers (referenced in an earlier log). They’re fairly inexpensive and I didn’t have much grief finding them at a couple different local stores. They definitely have slop in them, so they’re not really a good choice and probably go from rough to terrible as print speed is increased. Episode II here is to illustrate how well these actually work.

I found that I could get passable motion. I ultimately replaced the Prime Line rollers with Delrin rollers. I was stunned to find the first prints out of the Delrin’s looked exactly the same as the Prime Line wheels. This led to eventually find my main source of error was my print bed could move during the print. Therefore, I’m not really sure what the quality limit on the Prime Line rollers really is. My guess is you could get pretty damn good but if you tried to print fast, the slop in the bearings would become intolerable.

My Photo Album for Episode II is here.

DeltaFlyer Episode I: First Flight

Delta Flyer Episode I is out, it’s on the Delta Flyer Project site on Hackaday.io. I’m mirroring the episode here since my blog might out-live hackaday.io.

Last weekend I managed to get the Delta Flyer running. Most of the parts I’ve sourced came from very inexpensive (relatively) suppliers in China and I didn’t pay extra for shipping, meaning shipping has taken a very long time.

I’ve also been a bit worried that calibrating a Delta would be really brutal and have been kind of dreading the potential pitfalls.

For a first run, I decided to use very cheap rollers (Prime Line shower door rollers as discussed in my previous entry). Once I got the moving parts assembled, I decided NOT to install the hotend and just get er calibrated well enough to operate a Bic Pen. I took some careful measurements, entered them in to my Smoothieware config file and surprisingly things have worked out quite well. Check it out.

IMG_0078

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